Timorasso tasting report: the best wines to try

All the wines were tasted by Raffaele Mosca by Raffaele Mosca at the Anteprima Derthona Due.Zero tasting in April 2024.

Five stars *****

La Colombera

Derthona Timorasso Il Montino 2021

Cult winery  

Subdued in this phase – as it’s typical of the vintage – with marzipan, smoke and peppery notes superimposing over dried fruits and honeydew melon. Still youthfully tight, with mouthwatering minerals and super-bright acids compressing the rich core of fresh orchard fruits, and a long and zippy finish. I had already tasted this wine in 2023, and it didn’t change much since then. Make sure to stock up a few bottles in your cellar. 

Importers and retailers: Giuliana Imports (US) / Lea and Sandeman (UK) 

Vigneti Massa

Derthona Timorasso Montecitorio 2021

Cult winery  

Montecitorio is always my favorite among Walter Massa’s crus – at once expressive and built for the long haul, the 2021 opens up to a terrific mix of mustard seed, saffron, orange blossom, and balsam herbs, with a subtle whiff of gasoline in the background. Auslese-like flavors of candied orchard fruits enrich the bone-dry mouthfeel, while minerals and balsamic touches add to its depth and elegance, lingering on a long and flinty finish.

Importers and retailers: Regal Wine Imports (United States) / Winetraders (UK)

Vigne Marina Coppi

Derthona Timorasso Fausto 2021 

Cult winery 

Managed by the descendants of Fausto Coppi, the most famous Italian cyclist of all times, this winery produces elegant and perfumed expressions of Timorasso. The 2021 Fausto is no exception – floral and balsamic nuances mingle with white pepper, hazelnuts, and smoke. Equally refined on the palate, it is slim, light and deceptively approachable, with only the slightest touch of diesel fuel complicating nectarine, jasmine, and dried fruits. It will also please those who are not particularly fond of the more rustic side of Timorasso.

Importers and retailers: Maverick Beverage Co. / The Sorting Table (United States) 

Four stars plus **** +

Borgogno

Derthona Timorasso 2021 

Lemon zest, wasabi, diesel fuel and a sweeter touch of acacia honey outline a textbook nose. Classically-styled, with a rich and viscous structure framed by smoky nuances, it comes across as quite powerful and just a tad warm (clocking at 14% abv). But the acidity is bright enough to support the progression and calibrate the long finish featuring flint, iodine, and herbs. 

Importers and retailers: Ethica Wines (US) / Oeno (UK) 

Cascina Montagnola

Derthona Timorasso Morasso 2022

Typically ‘22 in style: flamboyant aromas of acacia honey, hazelnuts, diesel fuel and hay jump out of the glass. The palate is brighter and tighter than expected: the tertiary aromas echo at the back in a more subdued way and piercing acids giving an impression of youthful exuberance, lingering along with white pepper and diesel fuel on the ultra-energetic finish.

Importers and retailers: SoilAir Selections (US)

La Colombera

Derthona Timorasso Santa Croce 2022 

A new single-vineyard wine by one of the pioneers of Timorasso, Santa Croce undergoes fermentation and aging in non-toasted tonneaux, which impart a bit of extra spiciness and sweetness to an enthralling nose also featuring aromas of guava, hazelnuts, curry, and flint. The Chablis-like combination of intense salinity and a velvety texture is downright terrific, as is the long finish featuring subtle touches of marzipan and diesel fuel.

Importers and retailers: Giuliana Imports (US) / Lea and Sandeman (UK) 

Giacomo Boveri

Derthona Timorasso Lacrime del Bricco 2021 

Delicate and expressive, hints of licorice and wild fennel frame guava, nectarine and dried fruits, while a flinty touch appears in the background. Pleasantly tangy and herbal on the entry, it turns richer and more viscous on the mid-palate, with refreshing acidity providing lift, flinty and nutty touches complicating an elegant finish. A 2016 tasted last year proved that longer aging will allow it gain more tertiary complexity without losing its distinctive refinement and poise. 

Importers and retailers: Ethereal Wines (Australia)

Cascina Gentile

Derthona Timorasso 2022 

One of the standouts from this vintage, this has an expressive nose of eucalyptus, wild fennel and white pepper with underlying touches of gasoline, flint, and an oxidative touch of hay. Offering a lovely combination of textural richness and well-integrated acidity, a hint of alcohol-derived heat amplifies the long and layered finish featuring grippy minerals allied to flinty and nutty touches. 

Importers and retailers: Vini Vari (Switerzland) 

Luigi Boveri

Derthona Timorasso Filari di Timorasso 2021 

Aged versions of Filari di Timorasso are always gorgeous, so the fact that the 2021 Filari di Timorasso is very shy in this phase doesn’t worry me at all. The wine focuses on sbudued aromas of dried herbs, iodine, lemon zest and smoked almonds, anticipating a tightly-wound mouthfeel with mouthwatering minerals taking center stage, smoke and citrus dominating the youthfully tangy yet precise finish.

Importers and retailers: Meregalli (Italy)

Vigneti Repetto

Derthona Timorasso Quadro 2022 

More subdued than most wines from this vintage, delicate aromas of white flowers, herbs, lemon pith and flint hint at surgically precise winemaking. The palate is more approachable than the nose would suggest, with touches of ripe orchard fruits and lanolin backing the minerally progression and smoothing a clear-cut, balsamic and smoke-accented finish.

Importers and retailers: The Living Vine (Ontario, Canada)

Four stars 

Cantina Sociale di Tortona

Derthona Timorasso 2022 

Incredibly good for an entry-level white wine made by a cooperative, it really shows the positive influence of Walter Massa, who has been working closely with Cantina Sociale di Tortona for a while. Saffron, diesel fuel, marzipan and quince anticipate an approachable mouthfeel, with ripe acids cutting through the viscous structure, mounting gasoline flavors and an earthy touch amplifying a minerally finish.

Importers and retailers: —

Luca Canevaro

Derthona Timorasso Ca’ degli Olmi 2022 

The nose of this wine by one of the rising stars of Derthona is downright terrific: beeswax, honeysuckle, tangerine, saffron, a touch of earthiness and a smack of diesel fuel jump out of the glass. It lacks a bit of mid-palate depth to be really outstanding but still offers an attractively mid-weight mix of flinty nuances, lemon pith, and smoothing nutty undertones. 

Importers and retailers: VDLT (United States) / Vini Vari (Switzerland)

Vigneti Massa

Derthona Timorasso 2022 

As vintage-trasparent as usual, the 2022 Derthona by Walter Massa displays aromas of ripe nectarine, tangerine and candied lemon peel mingling with medicinal herbs, chamomile, an Auslese-like hint of sweet spice and a flinty touch. It enters smooth and fruit-forward, then turns savorier and more mineral-driven, with saline undertones underlying the lovely core of orchard fruits, lemon pith and a whiff of gasoline outlining a medium-long finish.

Importers and retailers: Regal Wine Imports (United States) / Winetraders (UK)

Stefano Davico

Derthona Timorasso Regina 2022 

Already showing a bit of tertiary complexity, with gasoline and white pepper framing nectarine and pear, the palate is equally expressive. Nutty touches complement the linear and lively progression, leading to a clear-cut finish extended by a subtle touch of diesel fuel and a savory zing. 

Importers and retailers: —

Paolo Poggio

Derthona Timorasso 2022 

Lemon candy, chamomile and flint make for a restrained and delicate note. Layered and broad on the palate, with tangy salinity over fleshy orchard fruits, it still needs a bit of time to come together. A touch of diesel fuel lingers on the medium-long finish. 

Importers and retailers: —