Here are the best white and red wines from the Campania region in 2024, as tasted by Raffaele Mosca at the Campania Stories event in May 2024.
THE WHITE WINES
Five stars
Cantine dell’Angelo – Greco di Tufo Miniere 2022
The vineyard lies right above a sulphur mine. As a result, the wine has a hypnotizing smoky allure, with intense whiffs of flint and ash over roasted almonds, white pepper, dried herbs, and lemon pith. It may not be the fruitiest Greco, youthfully austere and tightly-wound as it is. However, the combination of invigorating acids, palate-cleansing salinity and an almost viscous structure is absolutely knockout. It finishes long and energetic, with resonating smoky and spicy nuances. Fermentation occurs spontaneously, and the wine is then aged in stainless steel for about a year.
Importers and retailers: Kermit Lynch / Portovino (United States)
I Favati – Fiano di Avellino Pietramara Etichetta Bianca 2022
The aromas are youthfully reticent yet attractive: iodine, smoke, white pepper, a leafy touch, and some richer nuances of saffron and lanolin in the background. It is almost Chablis-like on the palate. Indeed, a leesy touch smoothens the super-bright acids and minerals to the core, while ginger, nectarine and a whiff of gasoline linger on the long and multifaceted finish.
Importers and retailers: Vinity Wine Company (United States) / People’s Wine (UK)
Vadiaperti – Fiano di Avellino Aipierti 2020
This wine hails from vineyards lying 400 meters above sea level in the town of Montefredane. It has an elegant nose of honeydew melon, jasmine and williams pear, with some nutty undertones and a balsamic edge. Laser-like acidity underpins the seductive core of moderately ripe orchard fruits, while flinty touches complicate the vibrant, minerally and charmingly floral finish. In short, this is an extraordinarily refined Fiano from one of the pioneers of quality Campanian wine.
Importers and retailers: North Berkeley Imports (United States)
Di Meo – Fiano di Avellino Colle dei Cerri 2008
After almost fifteen years on the lees, this aged Fiano displays attractive tertiary notes. Porcini mushrooms, tobacco and hay mingle with saffron, white pepper and almost peat-like smokiness. Quince and an earthy touch appear on the entry, but the acidity is ultra-refreshing. Meanwhile, mounting minerals add to the energy of the ample progression, which finishes long and savory.
Importers and retailers: Leone Alato USA (United States)
Four stars plus
Alois – Terre del Volturno Pallagrello Bianco Morrone 2022
Delicate and polished, this wine focuses on elegance rather than intensity. Peach skin and lemon pith mingle with dried herbs, smoke, and a nutty touch. Pallagrello Bianco is always grippy, tactile and broad, but this wine also shows lovely acidic lift and minerally touches that extend the multilayered finish. Aging occurred in oak, yet the wine is devoid of any oak imprinting.
Importers and retailers: Chambers & Chambers / Soilair Selection (United States) / Passione Vino (UK)
Cantine Astroni – Falanghina dei Campi Flegrei Vigne Astroni 2022
A deep straw color with golden hues anticipates an intriguing nose. It focuses on smoky minerals and tangy herbs, with some sweeter touches of yellow plum and marzipan in the background. In fact, it evokes the volcanic terroir through a captivating mix of spicy, saline and smoky flavors that linger on a zingy and tactile finish. This is a textbook wine from Campi Flegrei.
Importers and retailers: Verity Wine Partners / Pure Italian LLC (United States)
Pietracupa – Campania Greco 2022
Golden apple, acacia honey, iodine and a flinty note make for a well-delineated nose. A subtle touch of quince adds a bit of oxidative complexity. The palate is ample and multilayered, with a lovely core of orchard fruits lifted by invigorating acids and a savory zing. Overall, this is a lovely Greco from a benchmark producer, and the finish is long and enticingly smoky.
Importers and retailers: Astrum Wine Cellars (UK)
Colli di Lapio – Fiano di Avellino 2023
Lapio is one of the highest and coldest townships where Fiano is grown. Therefore, this textbook expression of place is decidedly elegant: charming florals mingle with hazelnut, lemon zest and a balsamic touch. Piercing acids lift the mid-weight core of stone fruits, fading slightly in a floral and slightly flinty finish. It should be even better in two to four years.
Importers and retailers: Skurnik Wines (United States) / Domaine Selections (Canada)
Casa Setaro – Vesuvio Bianco Contrade 61.37 2022
This is a single-varietal Caprettone from the slopes of Mount Vesuvius. It shows a baroque nose, with light oxidative touches of quince and acacia honey underlying diesel fuel, white pepper, and hay. Signature salinity is allied to sweet orchard fruits and lemon pith. Furthermore, a subtle tactile touch adds to the depth and liveliness of this extremely characterful and moreish wine.
Importers and retailers: Rosenthal Wine Merchant (United States) / Sapori d’Italia (New Zealand) / Campania Wines Limited (UK)
Four stars
Benito Ferrara – Greco di Tufo Vigna Cicogna 2022
This is a benchmark Greco di Tufo. Vigna Cicogna expresses the lighter and more delicate side of the grape, displaying immediately-pleasing aromas of golden apple, honeydew melon, jasmine, balsam herbs, and a hint of orange blossom. Savory minerals gain prominence on the palate, balancing the rich and luscious fruit structure and echoing on a medium-long finish. It is less complex than the really top Greco, but strikingly balanced nonetheless.
Importers and retailers: Marc de Grazia Selections (United States) / Petersham Cellars (UK)
Tempa di Zoè – Cilento Fiano Xa 2022
This is a varietal Fiano from three different vineyards on the coast of Cilento. Xa undergoes brief aging in oak and is slightly riper than most Fiano from Irpinia. It displays intriguing hints of anchovy paste that complicate candied lemon peel, wild fennel, and super-ripe nectarine. The wine is broad and textural: a subtle whiff of oak spice frames the seductively ripe orchard fruits to the core, while savory echoes and tangy herbs resonate on a medium-long, slightly almondy finish.
Importers and retailers: Artisanal Cellars (United States) / Campania Wines Limited (UK)
Mustilli – Falanghina del Sannio Sant’Agata dei Goti Vigna Segreta 2022
This is the single-vineyard Falanghina by the family that produced the first varietal wine from this grape in 1976. As a result, Vigna Segreta is more complex and less obviously herbal or floral than most Falanghina you’ll come across. Lemon peel, botanical herbs and a flinty touch anticipate a crisp and linear palate, with zippy acidity upfront. This is then followed by smoother flavors of nectarine and a clear-cut, smoke-inflected finish. It should improve further in two years.
Importers and retailers: Tricolore Imports (United States) / Allegro Fine Wines (Singapore)
Vitematta – Aversa Asprinio Metodo Classico Dosaggio Zero Principe 2021
This wine is bright and inviting, with hawthorn, smoked almonds, lemon peel, and a whiff of gasoline. It is slightly rustic but crisp and refreshing. Indeed, a frothy mousse lifts a lightweight progression with a herbal and zippy finish.
Importers and retailers: —
Ettore Sammarco – Costa d’Amalfi Bianco Selva delle Monache 2023
This wine undergoes brief aging in stainless steel. The aromas of broom flowers, Amalfi lemons and Mediterranean herbs scream coastal terroir. Similar aromas echo on a seductively smooth palate, with just enough acidity to ensure a mouth-cleansing effect and a saline tang that extends the perfumed finish. It is mostly Biancolella with a dollop of Falanghina.
Importers and retailers: GMD Imports (United States)
THE RED WINES
Four stars plus
Agnanum – Piedirosso dei Campi Flegrei 2023
This is an irresistible glou-glou wine, with intoxicating aromas of strawberries, rose petals and pink pepper wrapped in a veil of volcanic ash. It is juicy and easygoing, with mouthwatering saline backing the sucrose red fruits. Overall, it’s the kind of red you can easily drink slightly chilled during warm summer days.
Importers and retailers: Louis Dressner (United States)
Tenuta Cavalier Pepe – Taurasi Le Logge del Cavaliere 2016
The aromas are deep and dark: quinine, botanical herbs, charcoal, crunchy bramble fruits, and a whiff of spicy oak. The wine is tightly-wound yet without any grittiness. Indeed, imposing tannins complement succulent black fruits, while balsamic echoes extend a long and clear-cut finish. Aging occurred in a mix of small and large French oak.
Importers and retailers: 30.50 Imports / Beivuma Selections (United States)
Perillo – Taurasi 2013
Perillo is known for letting his Taurasi rest in cellar longer than anybody else. However, the 2013 is still far from being approachable. A dark and moody nose of crunchy blackberries, animal musk, licorice and botanical herbs anticipates a muscular palate with searing tannins upfront. This is followed by smoothing dark fruits and complicating animal and balsamic nuances. It simply requires a little more time to achieve optimal balance.
Importers and retailers: Oliver McCrum (United States)
Four stars
Fattoria La Rivolta – Aglianico del Taburno 2020
The aromas are varietally accurate: dark cherries, quinine, black pepper and undergrowth. These anticipate an equally linear palate, with loads of juicy red fruits on a bed of pinpoint tannins. Refreshing acidity complements the moreish character of the wine. In the end, this is a relatively simple yet poised expression of Aglianico that will drink well with minimal cellaring.
Importers and retailers: Thoman Hunt (UK)
Monserrato 1973 – Barbera del Sannio Vintage 2022
This wine is fermented in stainless steel and aged in anfora. It has a pretty nose of strawberries, rose petals and licorice, with some florals and hints in the background. It is saline on the entry, then turns smoother, with loads of syrupy red fruits allied to a spicy tang. Overall, this makes for a deliciously easy-going progression. Pair it with charcuterie or fish soup.
Importers and retailers: Mise Wine (United States)
Cantine Olivella – Vesuvio Rosso Vipt 2022
This is a single-variety Piedirosso from Vesuvio, with an intoxicating nose of blood orange, redcurrant, rose petals, and dried herbs. It flows on the palate with great elegance: juicy and slim. Meanwhile, an invigorating saline backs the red-fruited progression, echoing on the suave and perfumed finish. The wine is whole-bunch fermented.
